RESTAURANTS & WINE BARS:
Palermo is a city of colours, flavours and tastes. The people are very friendly and the city is as safe as any large city.
Food is a big part of everyday life. The open-air markets (very fresh produce) of Il Capo, Ballaro, Via Sant’ Agostino and Via Bandiera are all within walking distance. After the succulent pastas and special grilled fish dishes you will adore the amazing pastries, the ice creams, the rich, dense coffee, the unique bread with sesame seeds and the wide selection of Sicilian wines.
There are, of course, also food restaurants and wine bars (where you order a bottle or glass of wine, some lovely snacks) that are a main staple of the town.
LOCAL RESTAURANTS
The restaurants I am suggesting, except where noted, are local trattorie – -family owned, cosy, ‘joints’ where the food is good and the service is nice but very simple in style.
These are not in order of preference or importance….
Da Spano: this fish restaurant is a little more expensive than the others (between €20 and €45, per person, depending on what you order). BUT is is very convenient for the fist night as it is on Piazza Sant’Anna al Capo (the large parking off of Via Papireto and a few hundred yards from all the flats). The address is: Via degli Scalini 6 (Piazza St Anna al Capo) and tel: 348 562 8789.
- Sopra le Mura: this lovely place is off the street (via Carini) where the market is on. As you walk up toward Porta Carini, you will find a small opening suggesting a square, Sopra le Mura is on your right. Guests love it! Address: Piazza Porta Carini 5; tel: 091 584060. Reservations are not mandatory. Say Giovanni the photographer is sending you…
- 2. Da Spano: this fish restaurant is a little more expensive than the others (between €20 and €45, per person, depending on what you order). BUT is is very convenient for the fist night as it is on Piazza Sant’Anna al Capo (the large parking off of Via Papireto and a few hundred yards from all the flats). The address is: Via degli Scalini 6 (Piazza St Anna al Capo) and tel: 348 562 8789.
- Kus-Kus, Via Virgilio, 9, Palermo. Tel: 091 586 525/393 578 7815 ask for Tony, owner –Chef. Amazing Sicilian couscous; pastas etc. Walking distance.
- Quick bite at lunch: Surprisingly good and simple, BOBUCCIO, serves a quick lunch. Everything is made to order on the spot. From Spaghetti al Tonno to main courses… Just walk up top the cashier and speak to one of the two corpulent brothers, Francesco or Bobuccio and say John pepper, Professore, sends you.
- ACANTO, Via Torrearsa, 10, Palermo. Tel: 091 320 444. Acanto is more posh but wonderful and not too expensive (circa €45 p/person). Also GREAT FOR COCKTAILS – -and wonderful free buffet. Ask for Mario, the owner.
- Kursal Kalhesa, Via Foro Umberto I, 10, Palermo. Tel: 091 616 0050 for the cocktail bar and 091 6162282 for the restaurant. This is a wonderful, spacious, beautiful Wine Bar (cocktails) cum library, and restaurant. Set in old storage caves carved out of rock, with very high ceilings, this hip (but not too) destination-location, is an excellent spot for pre-dinner cocktails, post-dinner drinks, as well as for tea where one can browse through the books in the wonderful bookstore. The restaurant is in on a separate floor, in an open garden, and is quiet and relaxing in the summer evenings.
- I CASCINARI, (ask for Piero or Vito and say John Pepper sends you), Via d’Ossuna 43/45, Palermo. Tel: 091 651 9804 or 388 181 2368. (This is one of my favourites!). Walking distance. Lunch: Tuesday to Sunday. Dinner: Wednesday through Saturday (included). Closed on Mondays.
- SYMPATY (at the beach, in Mondello): 091 584 060. Ask for Michele. (This is also one of my favorites!)
- **CHAMPAGNERIA BUTTICE, Piazza San Francesco di Paola (which is at the end of via Carini – -go through PORTA Carini, past Bobuccio, on your left, walk straight about 500 meters and it is on the corner on your left. Reservations: 091 2515394 (ask for Salvatore, Maria Grazia, the owners, or Davide). Make certain to tell them John Pepper is sending you as they are dear friends. AMAZING FOOD AND GREAT WINE SELECTION !!
Ristorante da Spano, Via Gesu e Maria, 2, Al Papireto, tel:+39 348 562 8789
Lovely restaurant under 5 minute walk from the flats. Specialises in fish (most of its dishes are fish based) and is recommended by locals of all crosses of life and everyone else who goes there. The service is very nice although the restaurant is slightly more expensive than the others I suggest (figure €50/70 for 2 depending on what wine you order). It is perfect for a first night !
WINE BARS:
There is a culture of Wine Bars (Enoteca, in Italian) in the world and Palermo is right up there. I have selected a few that I go to…
- ENOTECA PICONE, Via Marconi, 36, Palermo. Tel: 091 331 300. Ask for Vera who will steer you to great Sicilian wines. You can also purchase here wine and other spirits for your stay in Palermo. A longish walk but pleasant.
- ENOTECA VINO-VERITAS, Via Sammartino, 29, Palermo. Tel: 091 609 0653. Ask for Giuseppe. This place is a few hundred yards from Picone. Although it is smaller it is a fun spot to pop in for a glass and a snack. Good selection of wines to purchase.
- OLIVER WINE HOUSE, Via Francesco Paolo di Blasi, 2, Palermo (corner of Via della Libertà). Tel: 091 625 6617. Ask for Francesca (wine expert and Chef) or Nino, her partner. It takes either a bus, taxi or car to get to Oliver’s but it is worth it. There is a nice terrace on the outside as well as tables indoors. Is comfortable, contemporary, and has an excellent buffet to accompany the wide and interesting selection of wines they offer.
- **CHAMPAGNERIA BUTTICE, Piazza San Francesco di Paola (which is at the end of via Carini – -go through PORTA Carini, past Bobuccio, on your left, walk straight about 500 meters and it is on the corner on your left. Reservations: 091 2515394 (ask for Salvatore, Maria Grazia, the owners, or Davide). Make certain to tell them John Pepper is sending you as they are dear friends. AMAZING FOOD AS WELL!!
* * * *
